Plumbers' Company Church Walk

6th July 2023

Wren 300

What a fitting tribute as part of the WREN 300, commemorating the 300th anniversary of Sir Christopher Wren’s death, to visit some of his historic churches. The sun shined and under the watchful eye of our specialist guide, we walked city streets and alleyways to discover hidden treasures in the form of ancient churches all designed by Sir Christopher Wren. As I walked alongside Masters and Consorts, many whose career takes them into the City on a daily basis, it was not uncommon to hear exclamations of ‘ I never knew this Church, this street, this alleyway was even here.

It is important to remember that eighty-six parish churches were burned during the Great Fire of London in 1666. The office of Christopher Wren rebuilt some 50 parish churches and St Paul’s Cathedral.

Regrettably I was only able to participate on the morning part of the walk. However, I have definitely been inspired to walk the remainder of the tour on another occasion. I am grateful to Master Basketmaker, Judy Taylor-Smith, who sent me a great photo from the afternoon of a plaque with her name on it. Judy resides in the City and I consider her to be an oracle of knowledge of the City and the Livery Companies. Fortunately she generously shares her wisdom!

My Journey:

1 St Paul’s Cathedral (Start)
2 St Vedast alias Foster Foster
Lane
St Vedast, named after a 6th century Flemish saint, has one of Wren’s great steeples, Baroque in style, with clever contrasts of light and shade and
of concave and
convex shapes.
The interior,
rebuilt after War damage, is exceptionally beautiful, with a richly decorated ceiling and many interesting furnishings, some of them of 17th century origin, brought from other City churches. The east windows have fine post-war stained glass by Brian Thomas. Behind the church is a delightful walled churchyard garden with many interesting features, including a stone carving by Jacob Epstein, a section of Roman pavement
and an Assyrian baked brick with ancient cuneiform inscriptions.
3 St Mary le Bow Cheapside
This is the church of the famous Bow Bells and possesses one of Wren’s finest steeples. Below the tower is an 11th century crypt, part of which is now
a restaurant. The
interior was restored, after massive damage in the Blitz, with entirely new furnishings and colourful stained glass windows. The hanging rood was made in Oberammergau and given to the City by the people of
Germany. The church has connections with Trinity Church, New York, and a memorial to Norwegians who died fighting Nazism. There is a bust of Admiral Arthur Phillip, founder of New South Wales, and, in the courtyard outside, a statue of Captain
John Smith, founder and first Governor of Jamestown, Virginia.
4 St Mary Aldermary Bow Lane
A rare example
of Wren working
in the Gothic,
rather than
Classical, style,
this church has a
tower of perfect
proportions and a
truly breathtaking
ceiling, with stunning fan vaulting and shallow saucer domes, by the plasterer Henry Doogood. Much of the woodwork is Victorian, but the pulpit, font and poorbox are 17th century, as is the west doorcase. A rare wooden sword-rest is attached to one
of the piers. The post-war stained glass is by Lawrence Lee and John Crawford. There are wall memorials to James Braidwood, a Scot who founded the modern City fire service, and to the surgeon, Percivall Pott, who gave his name to Pott’s fracture.
5 St Stephen Walbrook Walbrook
This is Wren’s masterpiece, said to have “the most perfectly proportioned interior in the world”. The dome,
a “trial run” for
St Paul’s, was the first ever in this country. The steeple is an intricate Baroque creation and the interior
of the church is

breath-taking. Flooded with light from
the plain glass windows, it contains many examples of fine 17th century woodcarving, including the reredos, pulpit and tester,
font cover and organ case. The rows of Corinthian columns and the carvings in the sublime dome and the entablature testify to the skills of Wren’s craftsmen. The modern central altar is the work of the great sculptor, Henry Moore. In this church, in 1953, the Samaritans were founded by the Rector, Chad Varah.
6 St Mary Abchurch Abchurch Lane
The plain exterior of this most original Wren church gives
no hint of the
treasure-trove
of 17th century
craftsmanship that
lies within. An
exquisitely painted dome creates a feeling of space and there is abundant woodcarving of the very highest quality. The reredos is by the great Grinling Gibbons himself, with fruit, flowers, and a gilded pelican in piety all showing off his masterly skill. The pulpit and tester, by William Grey, are also superb examples of 17th century woodcarving, as are William Emmett’s doorcases, royal arms and font cover, the latter decorated with the figures of the four evangelists in high relief. Original poorboxes, a beadle’s seat and box pews around the walls are all part of the unique charm of this least-altered of Wren’s surviving churches.

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